Saturday, May 9, 2020

Discovering Glenmorangie

If you are looking to launch an exploration of Scotch whisky, here is a good starting point. Glenmorangie (glen-MOR-en-jee) is a Highland distillery on the northeastern coast of Scotland. Their entry-level product is widely available at a modest price, and it looks gorgeous in the glass.



I recently got the Discovery Set at an incredible price of 35 dollars (US). Inside the box is a full-size 750 ml bottle of Glenmorangie’s Original 10-year malt, plus two 50 ml singles of older expressions, Lasanta and Quinta Ruban. That’s like buying a regular bottle on sale and getting two free nips.




The Original is aged 10 years in ex-Bourbon casks, a fortuitous symbiosis of the American and Scottish whisky industries. Bourbon by definition has to be aged in new oak, meaning its barrels can only be used once. Scotch law allows refilled barrels, as long as they are made of oak. Scotland happily welcomes the American castoffs.


The Lasanta takes advantage of another source of barrels: Spanish Sherry. Historically, Sherry was shipped in large transport casks to Britain, where it was then bottled for public consumption. Since the casks were not shipped back to Spain, Scotch distillers had an abundant supply of oak that imparted a favorable character to the spirit. The Lasanta starts as the standard 10-year whisky and matures for an additional two years in Sherry casks. You can see the influence in the glass – the color is, well, more orangey. 

The Quinta Ruban finds another option: 12 years in ex-Bourbon oak with a two-year finish in Ruby Port casks. The result is a deep reddish-orange liquor. While the Original and Lasanta are presented at 43% alcohol by volume, the Quinta Ruban bumps it to 46%. The higher age and ABV make this a more expensive Scotch; I was glad to try the sample without having to splurge for a full bottle.


There is a spectrum of aromas in these drams: the Original is unmistakably a Chocolate Orange with a pinch of cinnamon. Deeper layers reveal lemon zest, salted caramel and allspice. The Lasanta keeps the chocolate orange in the background, with a more prominent note of sweet & sour glaze over smoked ham. The Quinta Ruban goes straight to sweet & sour pork rinds.

On the palate, the Original evokes cinnamon with a finish of bitter herbs. The Lasanta brings to mind salt smoke, if that’s a flavor. Be warned, the Quinta Ruban arrives with eggy sulfur and leaves with bitter walnuts. Perhaps it’s an acquired taste, but that’s the nature of an exploration – you have to try things first. I wish you Cheers and Bon Voyage on your whisky journey!


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