Sunday, July 30, 2017

Love-drunk in Watertown

Boston Midsummer Opera presented Gaetano Donizetti's comedy The Elixir of Love at the Mosesian Center for the Arts in Watertown.


Fifteen seconds into the overture the romantic conflict was clear: a hapless peasant lad is in love with a business-minded landlady of the village, but he lacks the confidence to win her hand in marriage.

When the tenor started singing I was instantly drawn in by the emotional truth of his plight. This is what opera should be. Bravo to stage director Antonio Ocampo-Guzman for infusing every moment of the production with empathy and humor. It begs the question why other local opera companies seem unable to hire competent storytellers.

As the story progresses, a blustering army sergeant encamps to woo the landlady. The peasant lad seeks the help of a traveling quack doctor to thwart this rival. The doctor sells him a love potion (actually cheap Bordeaux) guaranteed to do the job. At the same time a rumor spreads that a distant uncle has died, leaving his entire fortune to the peasant lad. The intoxicated lad is amazed to find all the local bachelorettes fawning over him. The potion works!

There is a dramatic precipice when the sergeant and landlady are about to wed, but she sees into the heart of the peasant lad before the point of no return. Again, hats off to the director and performers for pulling off an adept and credible transformation. This was my first encounter with BMO: call it love at first sight, but they completely charmed my heart.

Thursday, July 13, 2017

Raise a glass to Bastille Day

I opened two bottles of French wine to salute France's national holiday, the 14th of July. Two red wines, one from the upper Rhone, the other from Bordeaux, with contrasting aromas. Let me introduce them.


2013 Crozes-Hermitage, E. Guigal, Upper Rhone – $19
100% Syrah
(13% alcohol)


2014 Red blend, Chateau Brown, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux – $29
55% Cabernet Sauvignon
42% Merlot
3% Petit Verdot
(13% alcohol)


Color – Both wines were in the purple spectrum, The Crozes-Hermitage with a touch of ruby, the Chateau Brown leaning toward plum.

Aroma – The Crozes-Hermitage was brighter, like a whiff of cherry and slate while walking through a forest after a rainfall. The Chateau Brown had deeper earthiness of new boots and cantaloupe rind.

Taste – My reaction to the Crozes-Hermitage was in line with other Syrahs I have tried: a metallic bitterness like licking the tip of a ballpoint pen. I expected the Chateau Brown, with its Cabernet and Merlot, to be mellower, but I recoiled from a similar bitterness.

Pairings – Both wines resisted making friends with the foods I put before them. Spicy lamb meatballs with spinach polenta, Vegetarian gumbo, Cheddar rolls … all were met with indifference.

The Chateau Brown was friendlier toward a Turkey, bacon and avocado wrap, finding affinity with the sliced tomatoes and green peppers inside. I suspect this Bordeaux might be on speaking terms with Stir-fried beef, peppers and pungent spices.

The Reluctant Taster suggested I try the Crozes-Hermitage with some Spiced gumdrops. Her least favorite color, the white ones (which seem to be menthol), actually brought this Syrah to heel. The wine didn't pick a fight with Mrs Mercier's lousy brownies either. This Rhone wine seems an antidote to sweetness. If you served a reverse dinner, starting with chocolate-covered mint patties, the Crozes-Hermitage would be the ideal neutralizer to lead you back to the main course.

Vive la France! Based on this and previous tastings I am drawn more toward its Mediterranean climate than the continental and maritime regions.

Saturday, July 1, 2017

Priorat revisited: Bluegray

l found another bottle of Priorat in the back hallway, so I thought it would be good to compare it to the last two entries. Warning: do not experience this wine while listening to Kate Bush – it’s a recipe for sensory overload.

Orowines, Gil Family Estates
2014 Bluegray – $19

45% Grenache
30% Carignan
25% Cabernet Sauvignon

15% alcohol

Color – A shade lighter than the last two Priorats. Call it a deep rose.

Aroma – Less floral than the others. To quote the Reluctant Taster: “It’s not a bad smell” (which is a rave from her). I pick up a whiff of raspberries, cinnamon and pine sap over kneaded pastry dough.

Taste – Brighter than the Martinet Bru, it begins tart, but finishes with a lingering bile. The gums begin to numb up from the tannins – this needs food, quick.

Pairings – The lactose in the leftover Idiazábal cheese worked wonders to restore fruit on the tongue. Even so, the Reluctant Taster clenched her face and hands. The triple-chocolate mini cupcakes from her recent birthday had little effect on this wine. Try it with shaved jamon, dip some bread in truffle oil, and keep a supply of cheese close at hand.

Final note – I tried this wine again with couscous, yellow peppers, spicy tuna and lots of black pepper. Bluegray was up to the challenge. The secret to these Priorat wines is to take off the kid gloves and hit ’em with everything you got. Pow!