When you mention Burgundy, people think of the dark red wines from which the color gets its name. But Burgundy, or Bourgogne, is a region in eastern France that should be equally known for its white wines. White Burgundy is made almost exclusively from the Chardonnay grape, and for the May wine tasting the Boston office sampled three entry-level varieties.
Most Americans grew up thinking Chablis was a generic term for white wine, but Chablis is a village in northern Bourgogne that gives its name to some very fine Chardonnays. We tried the
2013 Jacques Bourguignon Chablis, a Trader Joe's exclusive selling for $13 a bottle. All of the tasters liked this wine, but no one could say exactly why. I had a strong, immediate reaction, but it took two days to nail down the associations. When I was in Hawaii I tried the local pineapple wine, which was like rubbing alcohol with a thimble of pineapple juice waved past. It was undrinkable. This Chablis tasted like what that pineapple wine
should have been: an initial statement of tropical fruit balanced by enough bitterness to keep it from cloying. This would be a light, summery companion to a pear half with cottage cheese on a bed of lettuce.
Our next offering was the
2013 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages, meaning meaning white wine from the greater vicinity of Mâcon. Also $13, this wine was more aromatic, but I was hard pressed to identify what that aroma was. Tangerine? Peach? Almond paste? Ultimately it smells and tastes like the subheading on the label indicates: Chardonnay. This is crisper than the typical oaky American style; tasters noticed green apple with a vanilla finish. Perhaps serve this with barbecued shrimp or fish tacos.
The final French wine was the
2013 Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé ($22), again taking its name from the producing villages. We spent a lot of effort trying to pronounce the name, but
YouTube (click here) came to the rescue: Poo-yee Fwee-say. This Chardonnay had personality right from the first sniff. "Smoky" quickly gave way to "sulfurous", but several participants noted that it tasted better than it smelled. The minerals and acidity made this a surprising favorite. Our Dutch chef suggested pairing it with poached salmon or coquilles St. Jacques.
We tried a California Chardonnay for comparison. All of the white Burgundies had the pale yellow color of fresh straw, but the
2013 Shannon Ridge Chardonnay ($6 from a bin end) was a touch darker, almost golden honey. There was an aroma of bubble gum and bananas (Necco Banana Splits again?), but flavor notes of scotch and caramelization. This wine was much more pleasing than we expected for the price, and would go well with roasted chicken or banana flambé.
This was a successful final sampling before the Wine Tasting goes on its summer holiday. The Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé had the most favorable responses, but there were no strong negatives across the board. The only downside is that now I am tempted to explore beyond the entry levels of white Burdundy. Oh, to have the bank account for a Beaune or Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet. Le sigh.