A flight of Balcones

Balcones Distilling is in the forefront of Texas whiskies. What started as a craft distillery is now producing over 800,000 liters of spirits each year. I recently bought a tasting kit with 50 ml samples of three of their expressions: Baby Blue, Texas Rye and Texas Single Malt. To that I added a bottle of Single Barrel Single Malt from their private selection program.

Here's what I experienced.


Baby Blue Corn Whisky, 46% ABV, made from roasted heirloom blue corn. Rubbing a drop on the back of my hand released a whiff of cinnamon applesauce and almond extract. The nose from the glass suggested peanut skins, butterscotch, pear and almond butter. On the palate I got spiced peanuts with a bitter finish. I’m glad I tried Baby Blue in a baby portion, because I was hesitant to spring for a big bottle.

Texas Rye, 50% ABV (with “100 Proof” featured prominently on the label). The rub brought out soy, apple rot and sweet & sour sauce. On the nose I got apple skin and moss. A vegetal palate evoked blackened poblano peppers. I have not enjoyed many ryes, but this one was approachable. I could imagine pairing it with Szechuan, Thai or Mexican dishes.

Texas Single Malt, Classic Edition, 53% ABV. The rub reminded me of citron and candied cherries (fruitcake!) on a layer of spiced leather. The nose was a mixture of CranApple, dark cherries and stained wood siding, with a hint of sourness I couldn't define. The heat of the alcohol initially masked the flavor, but adding water brought out a taste of cinnamon.

Which leads to the Balcones Single Barrel Single Malt, selected by Total Wine. This whisky was aged for 2-1/2 years in European oak and bottled at a whopping 64.6% ABV (nostrils and tongue beware). Rubbing summoned vines and apple butter, and the nose had barbecued pork rind. The palate was afire – adding two ice cubes cooled it enough to bring out the same cinnamon as the Classic Edition. I would need to acclimate to the heat to discover more subtleties.

Balcones is a big ass truck blasting its air horn. You fear getting run over, but if you move over to a safe lane you can appreciate the size of that rig. These whiskies are not for quiet sipping in a laced parlor; they belong in the back yard, cranking music while the cooker smokes the brisket and ribs.